This new updated model features even better capacity to add friction and lock it off completely. It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. This process is significantly trickier with the Petzl Reverso or Black Diamond ATC Guide. On more traditional guide plates, when a second weights the rope or wants to be lowered, it is often hard to release the rope. I've got one, it's nothing special, grips slightly less than a petzl reverso. It basically operates like any other ATC with friction grooves until you have to lower the second. It is suitable for a wide variety of rope diameters and is well-suited for … CromulentBasmu's Experience. I have found a krab of the correct size works fine with a reverso (not used a dmm pivot - happy to try one if DMM send me one). $60.00 Black Diamond ATC Guide. I’ve also had a Petzl Reverso 3 where you use a krab in that eyelet to make a lever in order to lower a second in guide mode. Add to cart. With similar operation to the more common Black Diamond ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso, the Pivot offers controlled, smooth lowering of your partner. Great for rapelling, cutting down weight and, if used correctly, just as safe as any other Monte uses the combination of his guiding experience and civil engineering background to critically analyze equipment and apparel providing in-depth reviews on exhaustively tested gear. PETZL Tibloc Ascender One Color One Size 4.9 out of 5 stars 54. In this situation, most of the standard belay devices lock up completely, and unlocking them and lowering your second in a controlled manner, known in some circles as “defeating the plaquette,” usually requires some clever tricks with a sling, Munter hitch, and some other other shenanigans that if done incorrectly, can cause you to drop your climber. Neither DMM nor Petzl suggest using a backup. OCÚN FERRY. Shaped like DMM's Pivot, but without the hinged addition that enables it to be used in direct belaying 'guide' mode, the Mantis looks at first glance pretty simple. A belay device that is built for multipich climbing, from scratch. go to store. Add Video or Image. $44.95. $88.00 Petzl Verso. A really good unit, seems to do it all. Belaying a second climber with the DMM Pivot. $42.00 Petzl Rappel rack. $28.29 - $29.95. When the device is in guide mode and the rope(s) are loaded, how do you lower your second? I've completely replaced my atc guide with it. $29.95 - $34.95. My point is that regardless of the brand there’s generally little to differentiate one device from another. The rope slots in the Petzl are so narrow that I often struggle to force a somewhat icy 9.4 through the openings, while the same rope … How does the weight of the DMM Pivot compare to the Petzl Reverso 4? SAVE 31% ... Petzl Reverso 4 Review. petzl reverso belay device: dmm pivot belay device with guide mode: The lightweight REVERSO is a multi-functional belay/rappel device designed for cragging, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. Pros. Lowering in autolocking mode is awesome for cleaning gear but is generally not very smooth. The Edelrid Megajul, the device I have been using the most over the last year, uses the same approach but both of these can be a bit jerky and hard work to lower a second smoothly in comparison to the Pivot. A note-worthy achievement and a great belay device if you’re in the market! $65.00 Petzl Huit Figure 8. Mammut Belay Devices Nordwand Alpine Belay Black One Size 20400160200011 … With the right belay device, a small, weak climber can easily arrest the fall of a much heavier partner. Caving, mountaineering, multi-pitch, cragging, canyoning, each activity has its device. Well, fortunately good design has caught up with belay devices. Značka: DMM. This is 90degrees different to the Black Diamond ATC-XP plate. Unlike many such holes that only allow the nose of a carabiner to fit I can get an average sized ‘biner entirely through to provide a good handle for lowering. Start about 5:30 to see the anchor set up and how the “pivot” release works. Yes, it has happened. Works well for regular belaying and rappelling as well. Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay/Rappel Device 4.3 out of 5 stars 18. Edelrid Giga Jul. This includes when it’s used for belaying normally from the bottom of a pitch, when used in guide-mode / … Some have the auto-brake hook mounted horizontally while others are mounted vertically. 4.5 4.5 out of 5 stars from 35 reviews 5 35. Highly recommended and using it in guide mode is also recommended, just try it out first and be prepared for the rope to release faster than you expect. C$39.99 A more compact, lighter version of the versatile ATC-Guide. $88.00 Petzl Verso. PETZL Reverso Climbing Belay Device 4.9 out of 5 stars 30. So are the Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot, etc. 885 Kč Kód: 10414. 4 years ago. $26.00 Petzl Gri Gri + $215.00 Petzl Gri Gri 2. The ATC Guide, Reverso, and Other Plaquettes . Black Diamond ATC-Guide Belay/Rappel Device 4.3 out of 5 stars 18. 1 hodnocení Novinka 1 z 7 . An auto-blocking tube device (ATC-Guide) set up in guide mode. DMM. DMM Pivot. (No more than 2-3 emails per month, we promise.). Petzl GriGri 2, Edelrid Mega Jul, and Mad Rock Lifeguard are probably your best bets out of the 20 options considered. A well discussed review of Reverso 4. This is a crafty rope trick every climber should know.). sale Current price: $29.96 Original price: $39.95 25% off. The attachment hole (The grey pivot bar) is aligned in the same orientation. PETZL Reverso Climbing Belay Device The PETZL Reverso ATC is your basic, all-around belay device that is perfect for gym climbing, multi-pitch climbing, and everything in between. A figure-eight descender. Overall:  The DMM Pivot has really raised the bar with this more versatile version of a dual mode, tube style belay device. Pros:  Simple and easy to use, can lower a second, smooth belay and rappel, Cons:  In a perfect world there would also be an assisted braking mode. Pivot. Map - Portland rock climbs and bouldering, Pacific NW Long Hiking Routes - GPX Tracks, ”LSD” method, which we cover in this tip here, Here's a longer and more detailed review about the DMM Pivot. Shoot us your name and email, and we’ll keep you in the loop so you hear of all new articles. Experiences. T he Mantis is the "classic belay device made better", say DMM, and with its lightness, smooth handling and secure feel on a wide range of rope diameters, it's hard to argue with them. Petzl Other. Press enter for more information. DMM Pivot Abseil Device. Značka: Ocún. Black Diamond ATC-XP 4.8 out of 5 stars 141. Reverso 4 Belay Device. Thanks for joining the AlpineSavvy mailing list. Measuring the rope gap. The added benefit to using an I-beam construction locker when belaying auto-block, or guide mode, is that that it gives you an easy means to give slack to a weighted rope by ratcheting the carabiner back and forth. Petzl Reverso Belay Device w/ Reverse Mode Grey D017AA00 more At The Front, we carry the ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot… All. Sign me up! Interested in some DMM gear? A figure eight can be used for belaying, and indeed there are some which are designed specifically for belaying, however they are not generally popular due to the tendency to twist the rope. Another way is to rotate the entire belay device around the hanging carabiner to reduce the amount of friction. Otherwise, the Pivot works about like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 4, except that it seems to have a little better grip on skinny ropes. They have reasonable ledges to stand on, not a full hanging belay. So are the Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot, etc. Dostupnost: Zvolte ... DMM PIVOT. Try the new Pivot belay device from DMM. $20.22 - $25.46. $52.00 Black … The Black Diamond ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso are the most popular assisted braking devices, but pretty much every major manufacturer has their own flavor. PETZL Grigri 2 Belay Device Petzl Belay & Rappel Reverso Belay Device w/ Reverse Mode Grey Model: D017AA00. The Petzl Pirana is an abseil descender that is extremely versatile and easy to use, perfect attributes for a canyoning descender. $20.22 - $25.46. Subscribe to our newsletter . $32.62 - $34.95. Here's a longer and more detailed review about the DMM Pivot (written by an AMGA Rock and Alpine Guide). Try the new Pivot belay device from DMM. $149.00 Petzl Reverso 4. Top Pro ••• Pivot joint is more than a gimmick. Using the same high performance internal geometry as the Pivot, the Mantis is an incredibly lightweight belay device for use with either single or half ropes in situations where direct belaying is not required; perfect for the climbing wall and general cragging. 3 years ago. My DMM Pivot works great in guide mode in conjunction with my somewhat skinnier trad ropes. More information: http://bit.ly/2oNrdZz On today's Gear Show we were lucky enough to have a DMM expert to talk to. So, to lower your second, you simply clip a small-nosed carabiner, nut tool or redirected sling to the “ear” of the belay device, give it a tiny bit of upward pull, and easily lower your second in a controlled way. $29.95 - $34.95. DMM Pivot A1160GR Matériel d'Escalade Assureurs et Descendeurs Assureurs Annonce Chez Priceminister 41,20 € TTC Frais de livraison inclus. Well the main difference is the hinged guide mode belay point. Reverso mode provides assisted-braking while belaying one or two seconding climbers from the top of a pitch. Okay, let’s get this out of the way. So how did they do it? The DMM Pivot is the only device on the market with a pivoting clip-loop for assisted braking, which adds less than an ounce of weight compared to the Petzl Reverso, the Pivot's closest competitor in shape and design. Oh, and they come in different colors! DMM provided a sample of the Pivot for testing but this did not influence the results of the review in any way. Petzl offers a wide selection of descenders and innovative belay devices designed for all vertical activities. 4K. Most standard multi-pitch belay devices look and perform about the same with only superficial differences to differentiate between brands. Petzl REVERSO. But, in some unusual situations, your second might have fallen below an overhang, perhaps be injured, or for whatever reason not be able to give you a little bit of slack. Víceúčelový kyblík od firmy Petzl . Petzl Reverso Belay/Rappel Device . The DMM Pivot is an innovative device that allows you to easily lower a second, even if the rope is under full load. The state-of-the-art DMM Pivot belay device uses a special 'biner cavity: simply clip on a carabiner whilst in guide mode and pivot the device Highly recommended and using it in guide mode is also recommended, just try it out first and be prepared for the rope to release faster than you expect. $149.00 Petzl Reverso 4. 'The Pivot,' DMM's new guide plate design features, as the name suggests, a pivot point. The actual “ATC” is not a high friction mode device, but the “ATC Guide” is. Now while I’m sure there a large number of subtle design features incorporated into the Pivot to facilitate a smooth lower the only other obvious one is the large carabiner hole on the bottom. This makes it easier to rotate the Pivot and slowly lower someone in a controlled manner. The DMM Pivot belay device is a unique pivot-style belay device that has all the advantages of a standard plate, but uses an innovative system that allows for full and complete control and management of the rope whilst in guide mode. Given that the DMM Pivot costs about the same and offers better functionality, to me it’s a great choice if you’re looking to upgrade your belay device. Highly recommended and using it in guide mode is also recommended, just try it out first and be prepared for the rope to release faster than you expect. 1 color available. I have preferred this orientation as I have found it easier to use. Petzl Belay & Rappel Reverso Belay Device w/ Reverse Mode Grey Model: D017AA00. This new updated model features even better capacity to add friction and lock it off completely. 3. Some work better for smaller ropes like the Petzl Reverso while others are designed for slightly larger ropes like BD’s ATC. Everyone knows how to use the ATC guide/reverso (or Pivot for that matter). In my usage, I have found the Petzl to work better with thinner ropes and the BD to brake better using thicker lines. (It's still best practice to have a third hand/autoblock friction knot on the brake strand when you do this.). (function($) {window.fnames = new Array(); window.ftypes = new Array();fnames[0]='EMAIL';ftypes[0]='email';fnames[1]='FNAME';ftypes[1]='text';fnames[2]='LNAME';ftypes[2]='text';fnames[7]='MMERGE7';ftypes[7]='dropdown';}(jQuery));var $mcj = jQuery.noConflict(true); A Comparison Review of Prusik Cord Options. Reverso 4 Review by Outdoor Gear Lab. $190.00 Petzl Pirana. Sometimes a classic belay plate is all you need! With similar operation to the more common Black Diamond ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso, the Pivot offers controlled, smooth lowering of your partner. Here's a longer and more detailed review about the DMM Pivot (written by an AMGA Rock and Alpine Guide) A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. Le Pivot de la marque DMM est une plaquette réversible et polyvalente. Accepting ropes 7.5mm – 11mm it’s tied for the widest rope range of all the guide-mode tubular devices (same as Petzl’s Reverso 4 and Simond’s Tucan 2).DMM does add that the Pivot is optimized for ropes 8mm – 10.5mm, which is a nice way of saying ropes larger than 10.5mm may need to be squished into the device and they won’t feed quite as smoothly. The DMM Pivot belay device is a unique pivot-style belay device that has all the advantages of a standard plate, but uses an innovative system that allows for full and complete control and management of the rope whilst in guide mode. 885 Kč Kód: 10414. Reverso mode provides assisted-braking while belaying one or two seconding climbers from the top of a pitch. The Pivot won the Outdoor Industry Award for Belaying off Anchors in 2015. Reverso.net : Free online translation in French, Spanish, Italian, German, Russian, Portuguese, Hebrew, Japanese, English. Otherwise, the Pivot works about like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 4, except that it seems to have a little better grip on skinny ropes. PETZL Reverso Climbing Belay Device 4.9 out of 5 stars 30. Značka: DMM. This friction is more noticeable when belaying with thick ropes in auto-block mode, such as belaying a second with a Petzl Reverso. By Camella Matheson | Aug 7th 2015 | 0 +1-1. ... DMM PIVOT. Otherwise, the Pivot works about like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 4, except that it seems to have a little better grip on skinny ropes. Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from … sale Current price: $26.21 Original price: $34.95 25% off. The second is belayed directly from the master point of the anchor. (If they are able to slightly unweight the rope, giving you just a few inches of slack for a second or two, you can easily lower your second using the Load Strand Direct, or ”LSD” method, which we cover in this tip here. $28.29 - $29.95. Then it is far better and easier to lower the second in guide mode then any other guide device except the Alpine Up which is even easier to operate. Promotions: New Toys. Of these, the DMM Pivot is probably actually the best, but has a slightly higher cost, and the extra features it provides are useful for belaying seconding climbers, not so much for rappelling. Instruction for Using Reverso Belay Device. Petzl Reverso Belay Device w/ Reverse Mode Grey D017AA00 more Our favorites include the super-lightweight Petzl Reverso and the innovative DMM Pivot for its improved lowering abilities in guide mode. 6. This is 90degrees different to the Black Diamond ATC-XP plate. The innovative Giga Jul works the same as a regular tube style device (think ATC or Reverso) when in Manual Brake mode, making it easy to operate. Assisted-Braking Assisted-braking devices are becoming increasingly popular, largely due to the amount of safety that they add to belaying and rappelling. My Recommendation for DMM Pivot. Like what you see here? $149.90. The attachment hole (The grey pivot bar) is aligned in the same orientation. Well one way is to ratchet the braking carabiner but that’s only good for a short distance as it’s extremely slow.